מרץ 02, 2025

מוסקינו שוברים את הכללים

בתצוגה נועזת ומפתיעה בשבוע האופנה של מילאנו, הציג אדריאן אפיולזה, המנהל האומנותי של מוסקינו, קולקציה שהצליחה להיות בו-זמנית משעשעת, מתוחכמת וביקורתית. על המסלול נחשפה חגיגה של יצירתיות.
פרשנות רעננה ומשוחררת לעולם האופנה, שלא מפחדת לקחת סיכונים ולהשתעשע עם הגבולות.

דוגמניות צעדו בביטחון בכובעים בהשראת כריות ספה, תיקי קלאץ' בצורת עוגיות מילאנו וצלחת פסטה מהבילה, ושמלות שחורות מעוטרות בענני סערה וחרוזי גשם דרמטיים. לצד ההומור הפרוע, אפיולזה לא זנח את המסורת – להפך.
הוא שילב מחוות מלאות כבוד לאומנות החייטות הקלאסית, עם פריטים שבהם נותרו תפרי הבסטינג חשופים במכוון, ומחטים מוזהבות הפכו לאקססוריז מפתיעים.

הדפסי הנקודות, שכיכבו על המסלול, הוצגו בשלל וריאציות משמלות ערב אלגנטיות ועד פריטים שהעלו חיוך וקריצה. נדמה שהטרנד הזה רק הולך ומתחזק, ומוסקינו נותנים לו מקום של כבוד.

התפאורה הייתה מינימליסטית אך עוצמתית, ועם סיום התצוגה ירד קונפטי שחור שיצר תחושה של סיום דרמטי בין חגיגה לאזהרה. המסר היה ברור: אופנה יכולה להיות לא רק יופי ואסתטיקה, אלא גם אמירה חברתית חדה. כשאפיולזה עלה לקוד קידה בסוף הערב, הוא עשה זאת עם חיוך וחולצה שעליה הכיתוב ״אל

תשתקו״. מסר אמיץ וברור לעולם האופנה – תזכורת לכך שסטייל יכול וצריך להיות גם קול. וכשזה נעשה עם כל כך הרבה חן ותחכום, אי אפשר שלא.

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